The G5 is probably the most beautiful but also most simple case, that I have ever seen. Although, or perhaps because it is so reduced, it impresses with its timeless elegance. In short: Nico is in love and wants to have a

Here and there I have found such a guide on the net, but either very clumsy / destructive in the implementation, or slapped together pretty provisionally. I wanted to preserve the original look at any cost, which cost me some places more time and nerves. I refrained from even my 3.5 "floppy drive (ok, anyway extinct, not so tragic) and my second, award-winning audio CD Burner Yamaha CRW-F1 (sniff, good luck ...). For beauty one must now take time victims. À propos victims, the price of a single, empty enclosure on Ebay is not exactly cheap. Waiting for this Apple product with a nearly indestructible quality that I miss with my iPod, however painfully.

The case itself consists of 2 levels: 1 a narrow top, which I used for DVD and power adapter, and 2 a large bottom, where I had to bring the remaining components. Since the introduction of Intel-based Power Macs, there are also newer, almost identical case. Besides the new name "Mac Pro" they differ primarily in that the upper level is greater now and has space for 2 drives (from the outside so to recognize the two panels). This is of course the place for main board cut, what could possibly make things impossible. Whoever it is called a housing equity can be, so measure out, maybe still fit into a Micro ATX. This guide is, however, the G5 case, then back to the topic.

First of all get out, so you can see how much space remains. The partition between the two levels I've also removed during the craft period. Therefore, the three locking pins unclipped from the back (see photo) and then the 6 Torx screws are released from the bottom. After the pin was pulled on the locking lever of the case, can finally remove the partition to the front.

I then tentatively placed into a network part and the partition temporarily replaced. Then from below the outer line of the fan Mark (leave enough margin so that the adapter can rest) and saw out. I have for the rough work a flex taken with a thin blade and cut behind the edges with a Dremel and flap wheels smoothly. Before the partition of course remove it from the case, then it'll more easily .

This, in my opinion, the only place to accommodate the power supply. The height adjusts precisely to the millimeter, only the ground must be sawed out something so that the fan can operate freely. Thanks to the perforated plate appearance of the housing and the physical properties of hot air always to strive for the highest point, no component will die of heat strokes.

Now it's down to business: The board. For the fitting of the parts I've taken a olles ATX board, which rumflog here in the corner. That was very helpful because you can, without worrying about damage to the fitting in and always rausbauen. Furthermore, one must not miss during the renovation work on his computer .

I've stolen from me from an old PC case then the motherboard tray. This is a kind of pull-out base plate onto which the motherboard is screwed together with the cards. I think this is the cleanest method, since all the stops to fit correctly on a motherboard that would be very difficult to make yourself. The downside is I had very much at the back of the G5 case cut out. This looks but also on the back all nice and clean and orderly manner. Incidentally, the board is rotated 180 ° installed, since the G5 chassis, the opening on the right side has. This is not tragic, but unusual in sight. Unless you own a board with a heat pipe chipset cooling! Then is strongly discouraged from using, as a heat pipe carries away the heat with the help of gravity. Turning then to the conditions that could lead to heat build up and may even kill the chipset.

Before it started, there's still a part of the studs are removed. Of this there are two distinct varieties: 1 small, short threaded - We'll need! And 2 large, long head with a ball that can be safely removed. Easy to pack down with the tongs and with little effort and forth turn.

I then laid into the motherboard tray (with mounted motherboard and a map, or warp the distances!) In the G5 case and mark the resting against the rear wall of the outside edges. Outside because there sawing easier. It is through the many small holes so everything look good. After sawing, deburring and I have around the frame of the slide holes drilled and then riveted, alternatively, of course, is also screwed.

The base plate of the slide is now on the remaining studs and can also be screwed. After that, the motherboard will not budge and clean the housing.

Ok, what needs to be fixed yet? Ah yes, the hard disk (s). I found the G5 disk holder sitting over there, where now the power supply is so innovative that I really wanted him also recycle. There are 2 x 3.5 inches pushed hard disks and then locked with a lever. Previously, you only have the normal 4 mounting screws on the left and right turn into the hard drive, then slide it into the rail.

The only place for it I saw the front of the enclosure, easily lifted by a spacer made of sheet metal, so that because of the depression can still insert the plates. The spacer I built from the hard disk holder of the old PC case and battle with a bit of sound dampening rubber bolted to the floor. Since I use 4 hard drives, I've tinkered before that, an auxiliary fan that blows the hot air directly out the front.

The DVD drive is the easiest part in the story. You can put it directly on top of the inside and screw from the bottom, because this place is indeed a standard 5.25 inch drive built. Some drives have to abclipsen but the front bezel, otherwise the aluminum mechanism jammed from the case. Just try it.

Finally there's the electrical system to adjust the front panel. I've already made the effort and everything measured out, so you only need to plug umbasteln. I'm gone a little further and have the hole for the headphones (I need net) added a reset button and the distance of this button, a red LED that indicates to me the hard drive activity.

Firewire and USB I have inside fitted with plugs, so I just plug it as a kind of extension cable can. Most firewire cards (I retrofit habs not standard on the board and had it) have also inside a port.

Apple did the black connector and then I clipped drangelötet the appropriate tabs of the PC housing battle. Standing beside the table now for cable assignment. The perspective is always that when you look into the female side of the connector. ABC are the contacts of the power switch and coupled with the white power LED, which is why three-pole.

But okay ... well ... That should be ready. If all goes well, either way it should look similar to me. Sorry, but I do not attach importance to overall cable