Also, I was overtaken at some point the lot of the broken-G200 sensor, which pretty much breaks down in all cars of model year 99 up to 2006. Both in my Bora, and certainly the Golf IV, like the Audi A3 and even a smart one I've already repaired. Because the problem is quite simple: As only a small chip, which measures the lateral acceleration forces, the solder joints themselves wiggle loose over time. The only problem is that the little box is sealed with resin.

So if you too for the ESP light signals and one of the following errors in the control device is present, then you should read on.
Transverse acceleration sensor - Electrical fault in circuit G200
Transverse acceleration sensor - G200 implausible signal
Transverse acceleration sensor - no signal G200
Transverse acceleration sensor - faulty G200

For me (and also the Golf IV), the sensor was right down on the steering column under the steering wheel and trim, along with the slightly larger angular rate sensor bolted to an angle plate. In later years of construction, these two sensors are combined into a control unit, this manual, however, relates to the individual sensor. The accommodation is quite different, because when he is as smart on the underbody. If you have found him so, unscrew the plug and starting. From the angle plate, it can be easily unclip with a flat screwdriver, while one half of the plate serves as a lock.

Now the real work begins, because the part is molded with synthetic resin. Since no tricks, just a screwdriver and a lot of patience. The board, which lies beneath it, is quite simple and has only built a couple of resistors with the chip on the bottom. So you can pretty boldly with the screwdriver, scrape the black stuff out without damaging something. Instead of the screwdriver you can take something out of plastic, which is perhaps easier on the electrical system. The next hurdle is that the board in the housing festgeklipst three pins and is festbetoniert further with this black mass. How do I get out of the board since I can describe bad but a tip: take the side with a steel hook on the board and all pushing against the housing floor and solving the mush. At the same time you should desolder the PCB connectors (three pins on the plug). After endless fiddling you can choke out the board. Amazingly, I remained stuck in the same chip in the case - probably real bad solder joints. Now the chip operate out and remember the position. At the top of a small dot can be seen, this show must be parallel to the three pins on the connector. Then just hang up on the board and solder carefully again. Once you have the whole thing again inserted into the housing and has soldered the three connector pins, you have to spill the only case again. A good amount of hot glue completely sufficient for this, but I would at the sensor for Smart, who is exposed to certain influences on the underbody take more silicon, so it is also waterproof so. Now screw back in reverse order back in the car and remove all errors in the controller. In reading group 4 of the ABS control unit can be controlled with appropriate diagnostic software the sensor. There, the lateral acceleration is output directly if you vigorously shake the car. If you find a flat surface here is a variation of the basic value of "0" result of more than ± 2 to 3 °, so the sensor must be calibrated under Basic Settings. Who is now pleased to have saved 170 euros again, may be happy to send me a case of beer