As spectacular massage seats in non-luxury cars are, it is quite easy to build some. You have to reinvent the wheel, because there is already massage mats for cars to be placed on the seats. Exactly such mats I've just installed in my seat and the control electronics integrated in the seat console. On Sense and nonsense of a massage seat, one could argue, but I think it's just great, if you take a longer route tired to drive.

These mats are individually encapsulated in the interior of 5-6 vibration motors, like cell phone, but mingled with a bit larger. The control electronics, which has been so designed natively for the 12V cigarette lighter is in me from a simple on-off switch and 4 sliders. 3 sliders each controlling 2 motors for thighs, upper and lower back. The fourth slider controls the speed and intensity of all the engines. On the market there are many of these mats, which have a real wide range of programs with many, many buttons. But I have deliberately chosen this simple version, the number of switches to keep my seat low.

First I removed the plastic trim around my seat console and a place behind spied for the board. Finally, the additional buttons after colliding with any other handle or lever of the seat. On the Golf IV / Bora, as well as in many other VW and Audi models between the fairing and the seat base metal just enough space around the inner board of the control unit is included. The slider was painted black and I replaced the power switch against an illuminated. The openings for the sliding switch I have with the old housing marked out as a template and then milled with a Dremel. The board is from behind the panel adhered easily and to protect the contacts taped off again with adhesive tape. When installing the seat cover but you should be careful because this is quite soft and pliable, as otherwise might dissolve the adhesive dots again. Once it is mounted, it is not exposed to such a large mechanical stresses more than the board could resolve again.

Now for the massage motors. The mat consists mainly of a foam core, in the previously mentioned engines are glued. It is then glued a piece of fabric that is sewn into a heating coil with integrated seat switch. The heat output is rather ridiculous and only serves to switch off the heating if no one is sitting on the mat. This mat was removed and I just clipped, as I have already upgraded to this action is an original seats. Actually, I have everything else away, because we need only the vibration motors with their little plastic case, nothing else.

Now comes the nastiest part of the seat has to go and be removed. I have really expanded my complete and dragged into the living room, because then you have room to work. How it expands, you can read my instructions for removing the annoying seat breaking. Of course, all the existing lines are marked, including the side airbags. I think it is needless to say here that caution should be exercised. The connector and the cable should not come into contact with static charges. An airbag is also no mystery, if you follow a few safety rules. Before Disconnect the battery, wait 10 minutes and turn on the ignition for complete discharge (of course nothing happens). Under German law on explosives, someone who handled with airbags and belt tensioners, have undergone special training. Whosoever therefore can not, should not even bother.

When the seat version of the 4-Türern be separated as the first, the backrest of the seat. These must be removed under the plastic trim on the sides of each 2 Spline screw in the amount of the belt buckle. The other version does have the seat folding mechanism, since it is sufficient if the seat simply folds forward. The seat can be removed most easily: From the back of the fabric is sewn to a plastic splint, which is slipped behind the metal edge of the seat frame. If so times the fabric at the back bravely pulls down, one can endure this rail. Now you can even pull off the cover quite a bit, but only to show up to the point where the first sutures. Here is from the rear sewn a loop through which a piece of thick steel wire. Keep the reference as far as possible to the left and with a strong pair of pliers and a lot of energy trying to unhook the steel wire at either end. When the backrest works quite well: Below is a plastic splint back again so you must pull hard down. Then the relationship bit by bit up and unhook it all stülpen steel wires to rear and front. The head restraint must be pulled out before, of course, the plastic rails can stay inside. Once you have gekrämpelt the reference to the headrest, you can simply pull the fabric around to the rails.

Now you should have is based completely naked in front of him. At the points where you want to later have his vibrating motors must now be cut with a utility knife, small pieces of the foam, which are so large that the motors are a good fit in and be a little deeper than the top. When you cut the foam cubes removed a piece on the lid, so you can close with this little piece of the hole. Now the engine is practically just above the surface is not visible and the most important thing: not to feel. The cable can be easily embarrassed by a small cut with a knife and makes it plugged into the gap. In the seat back must be the motors, however, build from behind into the metal struts, since the foam is too thin. I have my 3 engines at the top and bottom left / right, moored to the poles of the lumbar support with cable ties. Multiple test sessions is essential if you want to have behind the seat is not any unwanted lumps.

If you have relocated all motors, you should install all the cables in the direction of the connection between seat and backrest, and then lead out on either side. If you are like me then retrofitted with a seat heater, so you can see, yes, where the original cable running along and then can all move together. You may need to extend the wires of the motors here and there when it gets too tight.
That's it really about it. The cover is raised again in reverse order.