Yes, the thing can be repaired. In an original price of 206 € should also consider the move. When PN 2EE Pierburg carburetor engine is the part breaks very very happy. That's why even on eBay or pharmacy prices paid for it. Hand, mind you! This guide can be applied by analogy to other cars. Because not only VW Pierburg supplied with parts. Many Audi, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche (not boxers) vehicles have installed the same throttle valve actuator. Only the connection to the engine electronics varies.

It consists basically only of a potentiometer to the motor electronics communicate the position of the throttle cable, and two solenoid valves in order to influence by reduced pressure the speed. And even last a whole lot of seals. And THE are the problem! Through the vacuum tubes running at an unclean adjusted carburetor also a lot Siffe, oil and even unburned gasoline. Anyone who has a bit of time, can open the Ansteller clean easily, and thus prepare. I have documented my process here. The part is now prepared to date in my golf accurate and reliable as the replacement part from scrap.

Let's begin: First, free the body from the outside dirt and oil, because we want to wear any contaminants into the interior. Then the two sheet metal cover off. The round at the bell with a lot of strength and patience must be bent at the sides. I put a clamp for Tiffani-glass used. Does a regular pliers but it, too. Once you finally made it, and be able to pull the bell a few millimeters, must be outside the retaining ring on the throttle cable to remove standing wave. This relieves the underlying rubber gasket. If one then the metal bell has completely removed, you can explore including a second stud. Also with retaining ring. Now to the second plate cover. The square is on the ground very easily, because he is firmly pressed only in the incised areas. Screwdriver underneath weghebeln, and. It is, of course, does not bend too much! Below you find a still-fit rubber gasket with 3 holes. Clean and remove make. Now, you've already look at the inner workings and the solenoid valves on the left and right, each in separate chambers. In the middle you see the potentiometer.

Now, one should first measure by the two solenoid valves, if at all worth a treatment. Because there is no substitute for the! Either measure with a multimeter to the outer two contacts each of the resistance, or create 12 volts and wait for a "clacking". If both violent clatter, everything is fine. This test can also make it before being taken apart.

Now you can remove the lock ring of the second stud under the bell seal, and gently pull the potentiometer between the two solenoid valves on the other side out. Carefully! This is followed by two sensitive brass lugs are small sliding wires.

All cleaned gently with a cotton swab and some alcohol. These utensils should be established beforehand to attach great deal. And whenever they met again a lump of dirt to clean. For example, the counterpart of the grinding wires that carbon plate. The leaves are unfortunately difficult to expand. It is taped securely. In order not to destroy them completely, we let them in there better, and just clean the contact surface with a cotton swab. The two brass flags now turn a little outward, so that they lie back with slight pressure on the carbon plate, and thus in a better future have contact.

Now it works on the solenoid valves. Each with two countersunk screws mounted 6-pt. Even those who have a matching set of keys at home, your teeth will be a hard nut. These screws are not only rock solid, but are 5.2 inches tall. Since Pierburg has come up quite a mess. Anyway, I'm just bored with a thin 2mm drill two holes in their heads, and then she turned with the needle-nose pliers. Later I replaced them with appropriate Torx screws.

The round thing in the lower right image is the most important thing. This is the seal of the valve. It consists of a thin silicon wafer. It can be easy with a pair of tweezers out pry out of the hole of the plate cylinder. Clean (Until it is beautiful again white) and runs around installing again. Because on the other side of the seal is still pretty flat, and has no scratches on the plastic nipple at the bottom of housing. Finally, maybe even check the spring tension.

Located on the exterior are still to the left and right, two hose nozzles. At the edge of a small thread re currently in the plastic. There, with a few turns (not too much) Screw a suitable bolt, and pull on the head. Now you have removed the lid. In one of the two ports will be a silicon wafer and a spring. This is a check valve. All well again free of dirt and debris.

Now that you have removed all the components, it is useful to cleanse the entire body and spirit with an old toothbrush. Please do not forget the 2 small holes at the bottom solenoid valve. The happy clogging!

Now we express the lids of the two hose nozzle with a lot of power back to their destination. Of course, without bolt, which serves only for the removal. The silicone seal on the best place upside down again into the hole.

Solenoid valves push back, tighten and re solder. I recommend anyway all contacts (including 3 of the carbon plate) nachzulöten again. Everything else in reverse order put back together. Moving parts (except the solenoid valves) fat sparingly until they are smooth again.

Finally, the rubber bell in the round metal lids carefully pull out and check for cracks or damage, clean if necessary. Then tin lid back on and press firmly on top of a vise with feeling again. Note: After "proof" comes "down"! )

At the bottom of the square rubber gasket used again (watch out for center seat!) And put the square metal cover. Here's nothing to bent or pressed, if you care when dismantling was. With a bit of pressure, the cover was supposed to snap back by itself. But that this seal is the problem. It should be completed outside the casing still sealed with silicone or just glue all around. Otherwise, the individual chambers not build up under pressure. So ... ready.

Now you can reassemble the part of the carburetor. My tip: The connectors on both sides are nicely with WD40 (or similar) spray. This eliminates another source of error, commonly known as an evil "loose contact".

Test drive, and be glad to have saved € 206. )